The big chill

Boots and a coat are two of the costliest wardrobe investments you’ll make. Here’s how to choose items that will last more than one season. Words & styling: Tracey Strange; photographs: Belinda Merrie.

If you get up each morning thinking you have nothing to wear, it won’t be because you’re a hopeless shopper. Clothing shortfalls occur because you haven’t been able to spend the time, not necessarily the money, on organizing a workable wardrobe. Getting value out of clothing and accessories requires planning and a methodical approach to shopping. What are the rules of investment dressing? And how do you apply them to two of the priciest items you’re likely to buy this winter – coats and boots? If you’re wondering if something is worth those zeroes, consider the following.

Do you love it? It’s possible your wardrobe is full of separates you adored at the time of purchase but now resent because you don’t know what to wear them with. Even the most expensive item is worth the money if you are prepared to wear it to death. Something you love also has the added bonus of making you feel fantastic each time you put it on.

Left: Max belted coat, $229, (09) 307 3339,with Decjuba knit scarf, $49, (09) 520 0955. Right: Alberto Fermani knee boot, $820, from Runway, (09) 522 0808.

Left: David Lawrence trench jacket, $269, with David Lawrence scarf, $49, (09) 520 2931. Right: Miezko shoe boot from David Elman, $450, (09) 520 3850.

Is it well made? If the hem is wonky or the heels wobble, forget it. If it’s made well the seams will be straight and the lapels will lie flat. It doesn’t take a sewing class to know when something looks right; if it’s puckering at the seams or darts or if the patterns aren’t aligned, it’s not worth the money. It’s exactly the same with footwear; obvious glue, shoddy stitching and budget materials make boots look cheap.

Does it fit? No point in buying anything – especially footwear – if it’s too tight. Clothing can be altered if it’s too big but that’s an added cost. Minor adjustments are fine. If it gapes, pulls or droops, however, it’s not a good investment.

Is the fabric of good quality? Clothing and accessories made with cheap materials will always look, well, cheap. Budget fabrics, especially synthetics and synthetic blends, pill, fade and sag quickly. If you want to keep a garment long term, look for quality materials, including buttons and finishings, as well as for good workmanship.

Does it require special treatment? If it needs drycleaning after one wearing, it’s not going to be economical. If it’s difficult to iron, you won’t bother. Forget complicated embellishments such as heavy sequins and tassels that tangle; if it needs special handling it will be an ongoing drain on the pocket.

Does it fit with your lifestyle? You’re not going to get the required use out of a hideously expensive evening dress if you rarely go out at night. It’s equally hazardous to continue buying suits when you no longer work in a corporate office, or to have a closet full of heels when you spend your day running around. It’s difficult to break shopping patterns but it has to be done if clothing and footwear are to be viewed as investments and not simply costs.

Left: Mi Piaci over-the-knee boot, $410, (09) 524 1430. Right: Max patent boot, $299, (09) 307 3339.

Left: Sussan cape coat, $209.95, (09) 522 4042. Right: Briarwood short boot, $449, (09) 259 0099.

What colour is it? Stand-out colours will always stand out ... every time you wear them. If it’s noticeable, you won’t feel fantastic about wearing it over and over. Neutrals – beige, black, brown, navy and grey – are the best investment shades for clothing and footwear since they go with just about everything.

Does it suit you? It may fit well but does it flatter your shape? If you think it would be useful but don’t feel gorgeous in it, chances are it doesn’t actually look that good on you. You have an innate understanding of the styles that suit your body shape – stick with them. The creativity is in how you make the pieces work together.