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All that sparkles

What’s big in new-season hair and make-up? We have the newest trends and the cosmetics that make them work. Words: Tracey Strange; Photos: Belinda Merrie.

Elizabeth Arden Color Intrigue Cheekcolor in Pink Star, $55.YSL La Laque Long Lasting Nail Colour in Poplin Mauve, $48.

Leighton Denny High Performance Nail Colour in Stormy Weather, $29.Clinique Most-Wanted Nudes Palette in Blushing Nude and Pink Blush, $95.

In the same way that you’d want your face to age – gracefully – beauty trends move gradually from season to season. Autumn 2010 is no exception, with the inclusion of long-standing favourites such as red lips and smoky eyes and the evolution of upcomers such as metallics, contouring and glitter. There are no major revolutions but, as always, beauty companies have developed counter-loads of covetable cosmetics, the majority of them easy to use and flattering to all. Here are the latest trends and some of the products that make them beautiful.

GOING GREY

Perhaps the biggest colour for the season, grey is fashionable on eyes, nails and (if you dare) lips. Its best application is in eye-shadow, where its very smokiness makes it both sexy and sophisticated. From silver to sooty, grey can be an everyday option or a dramatic definer for night. But for a different take on the smoky eye, big-name make-up artists are currently creating a more diffuse look by leaving off the liner, or by combining shades of grey and brown to give a slightly mousey effect.

BOLD AND BLUE

If grey shadow is news, blue is definitely a headliner. Along with leggings and power suits, the once-shunned shade is part of winter’s continuing 1980s revival. Paired with nude lips and elegant clothing, however, it’s now sophisticated rather than showy. Keep it playful and chic by using one shade only rather than combining several.

EARTH GODDESS

Eye make-up is definitely one of the easiest ways to ring in the seasonal changes. Autumn and winter traditionally signal deeper, more intriguing colour combinations, with this year being no exception. Apart from dramatic greys and blues, moss greens, ambers, smoky coppers and golds, chocolatey browns and other earthy forest colours are hugely fashionable for eyes, while plums and rich berries rule on the lips.

Orly Nail Lacquer in Tiara, $21.95Lancôme Le Vernis in No. 114, $40.

Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color in No. 720, $45.Clarins Joli Rouge Long-Wearing Moisturizing Lipstick in Heather Pink, $51.

CLEOPATRA KOHL

Fashion wouldn’t be fashion without the drama and nowhere is this more evident than in the use of eye-liner. Eyes amplified with thick, cat’s-eye-style liner have been a defining look on fashion runways. The sultry, dark, winged effect isn’t suitable for day but that problem can be circumvented by substituting black liner with violet and teaming it with plum shadow.

GILD THE LILY

Always a major statement, metallics come in a huge range of shades and formulas, including gold glosses, gleaming powders and soft, burnished shadows. All reflect the light, accentuating features and adding soft
shine. The effect is glamorous but understated: a touch of monied sophistication. Metallic shadow also has the added benefit of making eye colour “pop”.

FOREVER NUDE

If any look were going to win an award for longevity, it would have to be the nude lip. Perennially fresh, it transcends fashions, seasons and bank balances. This season it has been updated with a slight metallic fleck.

DEWY CHEEKS

According to make-up maven Bobbi Brown, no woman should go without blusher. Softly coloured cheeks mean youth and vitality. Add an extra touch by applying a hint of cream bronzer underneath the cheek-bone.

DARE TO BARE

Foundation colours don’t vary but textures do. A powdery-matt finish seems to be the season’s fashion dictate but never overlook sheerer formulations which even out skin tone only where it’s needed and look far
more natural.

BUSHY BROWS

Bold and beautiful, big brows add definition to the face and, when properly finished, don’t need much more accompaniment than a couple of coats of mascara and a slick of gloss. Keep yours professionally groomed and subtly darkened, if necessary, with brow shadow and/or tint. Gel will help keep unruly hairs in place.

COUTURE CONTOURING

Spring/summer 2009 was all about sheer cheek tint. In contrast, autumn/winter calls for contoured, almost chiselled cheek-bones. A hark-back to the ’80s, contouring involves the use of two blusher shades (or blusher and bronzer) to define and “correct” face shape. Experiment by brushing blusher two shades darker than normal under the cheek-bone and topping off with your normal blush on the fullness of the cheek.

RED OR DEAD

Few things are as glamorous as red lips but this season the traditional fire-engine and blood shades are more muted and refined. Rich plums, berries and wines are adding their class to red’s standout appeal.

SUBVERSIVE LIPS

Black, grey-stained, gold-flecked ... many designers relegated pretty pouts to the back row this season, opting for more subversive looks.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

Think glittery nail polish is only for the tweenies? Think again. Brands such as Chanel and Lancôme have introduced enamels in shades such as inky blue, russet red and chic neutrals,
all with a high-gloss finish – a million miles away from the stuck-on glitter of the past.

GO GLOSSY

Gloss on the eyes? It’s a radical move but one that is gaining in popularity, especially among the young. Beauty daredevils are applying either custom-designed or standard lip gloss to the lids. The effect is contemporary and surprisingly flattering.

PUMPED-UP HAIR

From the beehive to backcombing, over-the-top coiffs are big news again. Even the mohawk is squeaking back. Whatever your age, add grandeur to your day wear with a sectioning comb and a can of hairspray.

TWISTED UP-DOS

French twists, braided chignons, tousled buns ... ballerina-style hair is back. It comes with a twist, mainly in the form of accessories, clips and a myriad add-ons. Flowered, sequinned, beaded and feathered hair accessories ruled the runways, adding personality to traditionally prim dos.

GUITAR GODDESS

When it comes to hair, “rocker girl” is just another term for wash ’n’ wear. The fascination with rock-chick glamour isn’t going away, especially since the loose, casual waves favoured by rock stars and beach babes alike are so easy to achieve. All it takes to get the look is a no-frizz, curl-defining spray (and the time to air dry) or wide-barrel curling tongs.

* See more great fashion and beauty ideas in issue 30 of NZ Life & Leisure, on sale now.