Weekend Destinations – Moeraki

This peaceful little fishing village beckons as a stopover point with views out to some of New Zealand’s most dramatic coastal scenery. Moeraki (Maori for “a place to rest by day”) is not only home to award-winning restaurant Fleurs Place (see our story on page 100) but also the famous Moeraki Boulders, large spherical stones scattered over sandy beaches.

Unlike ordinary boulders which are shaped by rivers and pounding seas, these were formed during the early Paleocene period 60 million years ago in similar fashion to oyster pearls, where layers of material cover a fossil shell or bone fragment. Over time, lime minerals in the sea accumulated on the core and the concretion grew into perfectly spherical shapes up to three metres in diameter and weighing several tonnes.

Moeraki has strong Maori, whaling and sealing heritages and was North Otago’s first European settlement. According to Maori legend, the boulders are remains of calabashes, kumara and eel baskets which washed ashore after the wreckage of legendary canoe Araiteuru at Shag Point. The long Maori history is represented in the town today by the Kotahitanga Maori Church and a pa site nearby.

What to see

The Moeraki Boulders top the things-to-see list. The sight of these strewn along the coastline makes for a unique beach walk. The sea is gradually eroding the boulders and exposing new ones.
www.moerakiboulders.com

A road behind town takes you to the Moeraki Lighthouse where you can find yellow-eyed and blue penguins and a seal colony. The penguins, sea birds and seals can be seen resting on the rocks alongside the lighthouse, which shone for the first time on 22 April 1878. Watch the penguins as they move back and forth from their nests at dawn or dusk.
www.visitoamaru.co.nz

Kelly Gillan of Fleurs Place suggests you explore the Millenium Walkway near the restaurant. It winds around the coast and within five minutes you are in touch with seals, sea lions and recently some orcas (a father and his two calves).

Kelly also recommends taking a stroll about the two kaik (unfortified villages), small bays which are home to many of Moeraki’s cosy cribs. Keri Hulme lived in one of these while she wrote The Bone People. According to locals, this area is very spiritual as it is the site of an early unmarked Maori cemetery and makes for an eerie experience as the mist lifts from the ocean. Another walk of ecological interest is around the coast and through the Trotter’s Gorge native forest. 
www.visitoamaru.co.nz

If staying for a night or two, drive south to Palmerston to visit Macraes mine, the largest gold mine in New Zealand, or north to the quaint township of Oamaru which boasts Victorian heritage, architecture and diverse wildlife.
www.newzealandnz.co.nz

Join one of several charters for a day’s fishing. The deck hands will happily help you take your catch off the hook and fillet your fish to take home. A popular fishing area is not far offshore around a sunken squid boat.
www.siroccofishingcharters.co.nz

Where to eat

Moeraki Tavern: The local fisherman may join you here for a quiet one after enjoying a day of fishing.
144 Haven Street, Moeraki, (03) 439 4705

Fleurs Place: This famous restaurant is established on an early whaling station site, built from demolition materials and with collectables gathered from all over New Zealand.
www.fleursplace.com

Moeraki Boulders Cafe, Bar & Gift Shop: Overlooking the boulders, the cafe serves seafood chowder and local blue cod fresh off the fishing boats. www.moerakiboulders.co.nz

Where to stay

Noahs Boutique Bed & Breakfast: Situated in Moeraki village, it has views to the Moeraki Esplanade reserve and the sea and is within easy walking distance of the beach and the boulders.
www.noahsaccommodation.co.nz

Three Bays: Perched on the hillside above the village and set in native bush, Three Bays overlooks the harbour and beaches and has a very romantic ambience. Its name is derived from the three bays which define the Moeraki shoreline.
www.threebays.co.nz